De-María, testigo presencial de los mismos en épocas lejanas, establece el período de auge de lo que él llama Candombe entre los años 1808 y 1829. Extractamos en su parte puramente musical y coreográfica, la descripción de nuestro memorialista: "La costa del Sur era el lugar de los candombes, vale decir la cancha o el estrado de la raza negra, para sus bailes al aire libre. Si la raza blanca bailaba al compás del arpa, del piano, del violín, de la guitarra o de la música de viento, ¿por qué la africana no había de poder hacerlo al son del tamboril y de la marimba? Si la una se zarandeaba en el fandango, el bolero, la contradanza y el pericón con sus figuras y castañeo, bien podía la otra sacudirse con el tan-tan del candombe.
Los domingos, ya se sabía, no faltaba el candombe, en que eran piernas lo mismo los negros viejos y mozos, que las negras, con licencia "de su merced el amo o la ama", salvo si eran libertos o esclavos de algún amo de aquellos que los trataban a la baqueta, sin permitirles respiro.
Cada nación tenía su canchita de trecho en trecho, media alisada a fuerza de talón, o preparada con una capita de arena, para darle al tango. Los Congos, Mozambiques, Benguelas, Minas, Cabindas, Molembos, y en fin, todos los de Angola hacían allí su rueda, y al son de la tambora, del tamboril, de la marimba en el mate o porongo, del mazacalla y de los palillos, se entregaban contentos al candombe con su calunga, cangüe... eee llumbá, eee llumbá, y otros cánticos, acompañados con palmadas cadenciosas de los danzantes, que movían piernas, brazos y cabeza al compás de aquél concierto que daba gusto a los tíos. Y siga el tango, y el chinchirín chidá, chinchi, y el tan-tan del diviertimiento de las clases y dé la multitud que siguiendo la costumbre, iba a festejarlo en el paseo del Recinto"... "El tango se prolongaba hasta la puesta del sol, con sus variantes de bebe chicha, para refrescar el gaznate, seco de tanto, eee llumbá; eee llumbá, y paseantes y danzantes se ponían en retirada.
¡El día de Reyes! ¡Oh! en ese día de regia fiesta, era lo que había que ver. Vamos a los Reyes, a las salas de los Benguelas, de los Congos y demás, por el barrio del Sur, era la palabra de orden del ama de casa, y apróntense muchachas; y los chicos saltaban de contentos. Y como la soga va detrás del caldero, allí iba también el padre del brazete con la señora, y toda la sacra familia por delante"... "En cada sala un trono, con su cortinaje y el altar de San Antonio o San Baltazar, y el platillo, a la entrada para los cobres o pesetas, con el capitán de guardia de la puerta y de la colecta. En el trono aparecían sentados con mucha gravedad, el rey tío Francisco Sienra, o tío José Vidal, o tío Antonio Pagola, con su par de charreteras, su casaca galoneada y su calzón blanco con franja, y sus colgajos con honores y decoraciones sobre el pecho. A su lado la reina tía Felipa Artigas, o tía Petrona Durán, o tía María del Rosario, la mejor pastelera, con su vestido de rango, su manta de punto, su collar de cuentas blancas o su cadena de oro luciendo en el cuello de azabache: y las princesas y camareras por el estilo"...
"La fiesta no paraba en eso. Los Reyes y sus acompañantes asistían en corporación a la Matriz a la fiesta de San Baltazar, cuyo altar pertenecía a doña Dolores Vidal de Pereira, quien por de contado, lo preparaba todo con magnificiencia para la función del Santo. Concluida ésta, salía la comitiva africana con su vestimenta de corte por esas calles de dios a hacer la visita de regla al Gobernador y demás autoridades, quienes la recibían muy cortésmente y la obsequiaban"...
Esta lúcida descripción de 1888 es algo así como el canto del cisne del Candombe. Los cronistas posteriores hablan de la danza negra con un acento nostálgico de cosa desaparecida. Cuando muere el último africano se lleva consigo esas danzas rituales secretas y estas otras al través de las cuales da su versión pigmentada de lo que ve bailar a los blancos. La nueva generación que surge en ese entonces sigue el ritmo de la época, libando -como dice el cronista precitado- "en la copa envenenada de las emociones europeas" ...
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